The magnet for tourists, the symbol of the city, Manhattan is probably the most deceptive of the boroughs to outsiders who generally limit themselves to quick looks at the Theater District around Times Square (moving gingerly past the seediness of 42nd Street west of Broadway), the shopping promenade of Fifth Avenue, the munificence of the temples of finance on and near Wall Street, the eccentricities of bohemian life in the East Village and Soho, the exotica of Chinatown, or the special flavours of Little Italy and Harlem. At first glance, Manhattan is only the city of skyscrapers, glaring lights, and frenzied pace, an island of the strange, the neurotic, and the avant-garde. Crammed into its 23 square miles (57 square kilometres) are more than 1,400,000 residents. Its waterfront, formed by the Harlem, East, and Hudson rivers, is 43 mi- les (69 Kilometres) in length, but only scattered groups of slum children swim in the pollution and the few fisherment find only scanty catches. To the residents of the island, each section is a hometown. Those who live in the West 70s, 80s, and 90s -- the Up- per West Side, though streets run above 200 at the northern tip -- know their neighbourhoods as a cosmopolitan mixture of languages, occupations, and income levels. It is the origin of much of the chaos of the party. On the Upper East Side, east of Central Park, is a different mixture, generally more affluent. The Chelsea area of the West 2Os, with its tenements, renovated brownstones, and huge cooperatives built by labour unions, has a more sedate pace than the East Village and Soho ( derived from 'south of Houston Street' ), comprising much of the old Lower East Side and containing the city's major concentration of struggling writers and artists. Greenwich Village, the old centre of bohemian life, has become a favourite dwelling place for affluent professionals and successful authors and artists. Harlem means more than just tenements, housing projects, and black polities. It means a vibrant street life ranging from sports to stoop seminars, and it is spiced with luxury apartment houses with doormen, inhabited almost entirely by blacks. Yorkville, in the East 80s, retains pockets of Czech, Hungarian, and German cultures in a clash of old tenements and towering luxury apartment houses. The neighbourhood taverns of the Irish proliferate through Inwood at the northernmost part of the island, where the borough of Manhattan spills over the Harlem River to encompass an enclave of a few square blacks within mainland Bronx. In Inwood lie manhattan’s few remaining forested acres, and on open recreation areas the Irish keep alive their national sports of hurling and Gaelic football -- much as courts are maintained for bocciball games in Little Italy many miles to the south. On Morningside Heights around Columbia University, the civilities of the academic world overlook the bleak stretches of Harlem below and to the east and north. Even fantastic Lower Manhattan, from the Battery, with its ferry slips at the island’s tip, to City Halls, has began taking on the atmosphere of a neighbourhood. Apartment houses have gone up in the vicinity of City Hall, and the over- whelming skyscraper jungle around Wall Street, which is home to hundreds of financial and insurance institutions and some of the nation's largest banks, exerts international power. Which of the following statements about Harlem is TRUE?